Monday, January 13, 2014

Jinju Fortress

I spent my first week back in Korea lazing around, trying to let my body and wallet recover from Thailand (and my heart recover from a tragic loss to the Niners.) When Saturday finally came around, I felt like I needed to get out and do something, so I hopped on a bus to Jinju on a whim to explore Jinju Fortress.


Baaaasically, this place is a historical park that features statues, monuments, and a museum all dedicated to retelling the story of how Korea valiantly and bravely stifled and fended off several Japanese attacks on Jinju.

The park is a gorgeous scenic place to visit and is located right along a river that flows all through Jinju.

So many pretty trees! (You'll see in the pictures below. I'd almost like to come back to this place once Winter lets go of its vice grip on our collective balls to see what the place looks like when it's more green.


Chokseongnu Pavilion is regarded as one of the cultural symbols of all of Jinju and one of two landmark pavilions in all of Korea. It is the inspiration for countless poems and paintings. It's over 800 years old, although the original building was destroyed during the Japanese invasion of 1592. The building that currently stands was built in 1960 with money raised by the Jinju Historic Sites Preservation Assocation. It was used as a command post during times of war and "a favourite leisure venue among the literati elites during times of peace."


One of many shots I took of the river. This one, from atop Chokseongnu.


This is a shrine to Non-Gae, a gisaeng ("professional entertainer). This badass woman seduced a Japanese commander and lured him on to Ui-am Rock, where she then plunged herself into the water, dragging his ass along with her. She embraced him, thinking of all of the lives lost during the Japanese invasion, and jumped to her death. Visitors to the shrine can sign a guestbook and leave a little message for the beautiful Non-Gae. 

This monument was built in honour of General Je Mai and his nephew, General  Je Hong-rok. They put together a volunteer army during Japan's invasion and led the army to several victories in battle.





I'd tell you what I wished for, but then I'll never marry Emily Haines.




I saw these gents at Daewangam Park!


If it wasn't Winter, you'd be staring at a beautiful water fountain. Stoopid Winter.

A terrible picture, with the red pole blocking the shot, but quickly snapped this one to show the old man doing push-ups against the wall. He was not the only one doing so. I'm sure Koreans must live to be 134.

Seojangdae was a general's command post on the west gate of the Jinju Fortress Wall. "If the Wall should ever fall, all fires will go out."

I've lost track; I think this is temple #239 I've seen since coming to Korea.

Pretty tree!



The entrance to Changyeolsa Shrine, which commemorates the brave soldiers, as well as their leader and commanders who fought during the Second Jinju Battle in 1593.

I believe the tablets in the back bear the names of the fallen soldiers.

As I sat, putting on my shoes, two gentlemen came up to me with faces that I couldn't quite read. For some reason, my initial thought was that perhaps they came to kick me out; perhaps this was sacred ground, which is why there weren't any other people around. I got scurrd. Then they started speaking in Korean, and I just shrugged and said, "English?" More Korean. But then I heard the word "England" and I figured they were trying to ask where I was from, so I said Canada and all of a sudden their faces lit up, while I allowed myself to breathe again. They continued speaking, while I simply nodded and smiled. If I had to guess as to what they were going on about, I think they were surprised to see a foreigner there. I didn't see a single non-Korean during my entire time in the park, and I noticed I was getting stares the whole afternoon. This doesn't really happen to me in Ulsan, so I'm thinking that they were happy to see a foreigner take interest in their nation's history. I could be totally wrong, but that's my story, and I'm sticking to it.


I'm a total tree hugger.

This is where the army leader would gather his men and give his Braveheart speech.

After wandering around outside, I finally made my way to the museum. As soon as I walked in the door, I noticed people strolling into a room to my left, so I went to check it out. It turned out to be a small auditorium for about 50 people. My first thought was, "Well, it probably won't be in English, nor will it have subtitles, so I'll pass." Then I noticed the 3D glasses. "Are we going to watch a 3D war movie?! Only one way to find out."

The computer graphics weren't mind-blowing, but it was still entertaining. It was like watching the unveiling of a new video game called Assassin's Creed: Jinju Fortress.

Not having subtitles actually made if more fun because I got to add my own dialogue in my head. The movie starts off with a Japanese attack on the water. The defenseless Korean fleet was slaughtered.

From there, the Korean army is led by their heroic leader and they successfully hold off several Japanese attacks. Then the unthinkable happens. As the general stands looking over the dead bodies scattered all around him, one Japanese soldier lying close to death on the floor uses his last strength to fire one off and nail the general in the head from behind. He didn't even see it coming.

But the troops rally together in their leader's honour and kick the crap out of the Japanese army until they run off with their tails between their legs.

It wasn't the greatest war epic, but it sure as hell beat Pearl Harbour.

Evil Monkey? This thing stood outside of the museum.

Homer Simpson was wrong; "de fault" are not the two sweetest words in the English language.
Jinju National Museum

Done and done. This sign was lying on the steps as I walked to the top of the monument.
When I got to the top, I understood what the sign meant. This overwhelming sense of serenity washed over me when I got to the top--like I could feel the presence of each and every one of those soldiers. It felt like a holy and sacred place


2 comments:

Unknown said...

Freaking gorgeous pictures.

Your retelling of the military battle was both poignant and heartfelt.

Uri85 said...

Thanks bud! And to think, I almost failed history in middle school AND high school cuz I found it so damn boring.